In the heart of the land of Babylon, where legend and history stand side by side, and where the earth breathes the fragrance of ancient civilizations, small traditional villages emerged that preserved the memories and stories of their people. Among these villages, Kweiresh stood out as the most beautiful and most deeply rooted in the collective memory, a village whose story was not recorded in books but preserved in the hearts of its inhabitants and passed down from one generation to another. Kweiresh lay on the eastern bank of the Shatt al-Hillah, adjacent to the ruins of the Northern Palace of King Nebuchadnezzar II, surrounded by date-palm groves that provided it with perpetual shade and an uninterrupted sense of tranquility. Mr. Abbas al-Mamouri, born in 1946, who worked as the custodian of the Hillah Library and who generously gave me a copy of his personal memoirs about the village, which constituted a fundamental part of the information on which this article is based, states that the village community was not the product of a single lineage, but rather a human mosaic of various tribes and families, such as the Dulaim, Khafaja, Rabi'a, al-Ma'amira, and others. Over time, these diverse origins merged to create a cohesive social unity led by Sheikh Habib Alawi al-Dulaimi, who died in 1918 and who was not merely a sheikh, but a symbol of resistance and dignity. During a time of turmoil, when Ottoman repression intensified, Sheikh Habib stood against the authorities, fearing neither threat nor intimidation. During the events of 1916, known as the “Dakkat Akif,” he opened the doors of his village to those fleeing the massacres and transformed its location overlooking the river into a position of strength. He seized an Ottoman military vessel loaded with weapons and distributed what it carried among the people of the villages, making the river a witness to a rare moment of rebellion in the history of the place. At the heart of the village stood an imposing building known as the “German Palace,” which was the residence of the sheikh himself and which hosted the German archaeological expedition led by Robert Koldewey. Although the building was commonly known as the “German Palace,” this designation does not accurately reflect its historical reality, as its original ownership belonged to Sheikh Habib Alawi al-Dulaimi. When the German expedition arrived in Babylon in 1899 under the leadership of Robert Koldewey, it initially took Sheikh Habib’s house as its residence. As excavation activities expanded and its logistical and administrative requirements increased, the house was no longer sufficient to accommodate the expedition’s activities, prompting it to enter into a contract with the sheikh to rent half of the house for a period of five years. The contract stipulated that the expedition would bear the costs of constructing any additional structures it built within the house, while ownership of these additions would revert to the sheikh upon the expiration of the lease. This condition was recorded in the German documents. Accordingly, the German expedition began carrying out architectural expansions within the house, including the construction of additional facilities and two new wings, the reorganization of the interior spaces, as well as the construction of a stable for horses within the house complex in accordance with the nature of the archaeological and administrative work. A large part of it, like the rest of the house’s facilities, was constructed from Babylonian brick. These architectural additions reflect the qualitative transformation that archaeological excavations in Babylon underwent, as they moved from their initial exploratory stages to a more organized phase that required the development of spatial infrastructure suited to the growing scale of archaeological activity. However, the excavation activities declined abruptly with the outbreak of the First World War, as excavation operations were significantly reduced, and members of the expedition, including Robert Koldewey and Gottfried Bodenzig, were forced to leave Babylon on 7 March 1917 as British forces approached. After the end of Ottoman rule and the arrival of British forces, and following the conclusion of the German excavations in Babylon, the village of Kweiresh , like other parts of Iraq, underwent notable transformations, which affected various social and administrative aspects, particularly in the field of education. During the period preceding Iraq’s independence from the British Mandate, specifically in 1931, the first school in the village was established under the name “Babylon Primary School,” which is considered one of the earliest educational institutions in Babil Governorate. The school was located in part of the sheikh’s house, or what was known as the “German Palace.” The educational experience subsequently expanded when Sheikh Dhahir Habib al-Alawi donated a plot of land for the construction of a new school for boys. The educational process was transferred there, while the old building was converted into a private school for girls, in a step that reflected the growing interest in female education and the expansion of educational opportunities within the local community. Thus, this building represents a clear example of the intersection of local and international dimensions in the modern history of Babylon, as it was transformed from a local residence into a center for the activities of a foreign archaeological expedition and then into an educational institution that contributed to shaping cultural and educational awareness in the region.
In another context related to architecture, Kweiresh was not merely a place of residence, but a complete and integrated way of life. Its mud houses, built from mud brick and Babylonian brick, particularly the bricks extracted from what the villagers called the “Yellow Palace,” namely the Northern Palace of King Nebuchadnezzar II, which acquired its name from the reflection of sunlight on its walls, making them appear golden yellow in color. These houses, with their simple designs, were adapted to the harsh climate of Iraq, just as they reflected the spirit of Mesopotamian architecture that had existed for thousands of years. The village wall was approximately three meters high, constructed from mud brick and reinforced with Babylonian brick as well. It was interspersed with small towers and openings for shooting. In addition, a large guesthouse, or mudhif, was built in the center of the village by Sheikh Habib al-Alawi al-Dulaimi. It was constructed from Babylonian brick and mud brick and was distinguished by a large wooden door reinforced with iron straps and massive nails. This building remained standing until the years of displacement, 1986–1987. Alongside its traditional architecture, the village was also famous for agriculture, and other occupations emerged, such as extracting salt from “Tell al-Milh,” or the “Salt Mound.” Women would fill jars with salty water and place them inside the mounds of Babylon, leaving the sun to complete the process. The water would evaporate, leaving the salt settled in the jars. Over the years, Kweiresh became a tourist destination visited by Iraqis and foreigners after visiting the archaeological remains of Babylon. Along the riverbank, in the small cafés, visitors would sit and contemplate the same landscape that the villagers had contemplated for decades. Presidents, such as Abdul Karim Qasim and Abdul Salam Arif, also passed through the village and sat in Mazhar Café, drinking tea and listening to the silence of the place. But, as always happens, nothing remains unchanged. In the early 1980s, Saddam Hussein visited the site and was greatly impressed by it, which later led to the decision to relocate the villagers and compensate them, in preparation for the construction of a presidential palace on the site. The palace was built to emulate, in concept and location, the palaces of Nebuchadnezzar nearby, as it was erected in close proximity to them, while taking into consideration the symbolic and historical significance of the place. Thus, the village disappeared, yet the village of Kweiresh remained, despite everything, more than just a village. It is a living memory and a miniature image of the relationship between people, archaeology, and history, where mud meets water and stories embrace the place, in a scene that does not age, even as its features change.
M.M. Ammar Aboud Mohsen